Kailash - part 1 | toastbutterjam

To see Mt. Kailash is the reason we came to Tibet. According to Buddhist tradition, to make the pilgrimage around Kailash (called a kora) is to cast away the burdens and sins of this life and bring good fortune in this life and future lives. There is so much more to say about the four days that we spent walking around the mountain than could be put into a blog, but we'll do what we can.

From the viewpoint of a "trek" the walk is fairly moderate aside from the altitude. The starting point at Darchen is 14,700 ft and it tops out on the Drolma La at 18,400 ft. We had plenty of days accilimatizing both in Nylam and as we drove across the plateau, so we felt good in Darchen. As a pilgrimage, it's one of the most powerful koras one can do. The first day we walked from the south side around the west and arrived at Dira Puk monestary (16,000 ft) on the north face for our first night. We had nearly perfect weather; cold but sunny and no wind. We saw no one aside from a couple Tibetans on motorbike near the mouth of the valley early in the day. During normal season, there can be huge crowds of pilgrims making their way around the mountain, so we were very fortunate to be here late - in fact, we were the last westerners there for this season.

We got to spend two nights at Dira Puk and it was a real treat. The north face of Kailash is stunning, and the tranquility there was very special. Laurent & I hiked up nearly to the base of the north face as a day hike, and spent the afternoon sitting in on puja with the monk at the gompa. The accomodations at the gompa were spartan, but still comfortable. Hanging out in the warm smoky kitchen, sitting in the sunshine on the roof, and watching the sunrise and sunset on Kailash will be memories we will carry forever. There are only three monks at the gompa right now because the Chinese have restricted numbers in the aftermath of the trouble in Lhasa this summer leading up to the Olympics. It's a shame, but it was lovely to see how those few monks managed to make the place feel so alive. I'm grateful for every smile and prayer we got to share with them.

The third morning we were up before the sun to get an early start on the long day up over the Drolma La and around to the east side to another monastery to spend the last night. The climb up the Drolma La was steep, cold and snowpacked. Additionally, as part of the kora, this is the "dying place" where you leave this life behind. There are stone chortens everywhere draped with clothing left behind by pilgrims as symbolic figures of leaving yourself behind. You can also make prayers here for those who have died. We both had some powerful experiences here.

There will have to be a "part two" here, since it's late, my battery is dying and the internet cafe is closing soon. So, up next...the Drolma La and the return to Darchen.

Luke